Central Asia / Former USSR trip

With school, breaktime has become more and more valuable. With two weeks to work with, below is a semi-confirmed trip (airfare from LAX - MOW, from MOW - URC confirmed). Should be fun!

View Planned Central Asia / USSR trip in a larger map

I-10: New Orleans to Los Angeles

To migrate to Los Angeles, I had to drive along I-10 for the majority of the route. Some of my impressions:

• It's really hard to find Cajun food along the Louisiana route. Better luck going straight to the French quarter in New Orleans.
• Having lived in Houston for a month and half, there is not much fun to do for the tourist; however, dinner in Chinatown/Bellaire can be nice.
• Fuel up in San Antonio, TX, because gas prices only go up from there.
• There is nothing between San Antonio, TX and El Paso, TX other than vast hill country. Although it's beautiful, stop wherever you can to get gas and food! And the speed limit is 80 MPH!
• See previous entry for El Paso, TX.
• The section between El Paso, TX and Tucson, AZ is likewise void of life aside from Las Cruces, NM. It is also among the most scenic of the drive.
• Los Angeles, CA traffic is horrendous; avoid making it in during rush hour.
• For hotels, I found Orbitz cheap at times, but without an Orbitz option Motel 6 was best for walk-in prices. (as low as $30/night taxes inc'd on Orbitz, $40/night otherwise for Motel 6)

Sonoran Desert typical off-highway view (New Mexico)

Texas Hill Country

El Paso, TX and Ciudad Juarez, MX

Although only a day trip, I found the El Paso / Ciudad Juarez relationship fascinating, as although the two cities are sepearated by the Rio Grande for all intents and purposes they feel like one symbiotic unit. Prehaps it is due to El Paso's isolated location in the States, the large Hispanic / cowboy culture in both cities, or the creek-size Rio Grande separating the two huge metropolises. Regardless, a visit across the border is well-worth it, and most likely (was) a common adventure for those from El Paso.

As of Jun 2009, however, Ciudad Juarez and the state of Chihuahua has been engulfed in a war between drug cartels, which has led to kidnappings and killings galore. Although in context the area might be no more dangerous than Guatemala City, it's still potentially a serious situation. The steps of the Mexican military to curtail the violence were abundantly clear once crossing over into Juarez; at any given street corner, a armed-to-the-teeth army patrol would pass almost every minute. The positive spin is that this makes (in my opinion) the city safe to visit, while taking out the normal day-tripping American crowds.

Logistically, driving requires Mexican insurance; however, walking over the Paso del Norte / Santa Fe Bridge is pretty trivial and parking is $3. Once in Ciudad Juarez, the street blocks become much more walkable. I found the Mercado Juarez, on the Ave. 16 de Septiembre [cross bridge, walk along Ave. Juarez ~1000m, turn left] very underwhelming; however, the real market on the other side of Ave. 16 de Septiembre [turn right at the intersection of Ave. Juarez] was fairly impressive.

Things to buy in Mexico can include: spices (dried), liquor (1L handle of Kahlua / Cuervo-type liquor for $10US at 13 MXN to 1 USD, random trinkets / silver, and knockoffs. Street food is ample. There are ATMs along Ave. Juarez to pull pesos. The allowance is 1L liquor for Texas residents / 4L liquor otherwise. To cross the bridges is $0.35 USD to Juarez / 3 pesos to El Paso when walking.

The Rio Grande separating El Paso (left) and Ciudad Juarez (right)

Av. 16 de Septiembre; notice the military convoy

Silk road tentative trip - anyone in?

With a month and a half left until I start professional training, I have been getting a bit restless and am torn between taking one of the trips outlined below. I chose this route because it covers South and East Asia, goes through the Karakoram Highway and mountains which is part of the Silk Road, and enters China in Kashgar, which is where The Kite Runner was filmed and is en-route for "modernization" (read: demolition of Uyghur compounds). The part starting from Beijing is flexible. Anyone interested in joining?

Cost

Transport, air

• $750 r/t early summer airfare, New York-Frankfort/Munich-Delhi and Chennai-New York return (priced from 22-May to 28-Jun)
• $100 o/w Islamabad-Gilgit flight
• $20 + 20,000 SkyTeam Frequent Flyer miles, Kashgar-Beijing, Beijing-Kuala Lampur, Malaysia (or any other asian destination). w/o the miles, it costs upwards of $800.
• $120 o/w, Kuala Lampur-Chennai.

Transport, ground, estimate:

• ~$175, transport in India (bus/train/taxis/auto-rickshaws)
• ~$200, transport in Pakistan to Kashgar, China along the KKH (bus/jeep)
• ~$150, transport in China including train tickets Beijing-Qingdao
• ~$50, transport in Malaysia (bus/train)

Food, entertainment, room, other estimate:

• 12 certain days * $25/day in India
• 7 certain days * $20/day in Pakistan
• 7 certain days * $25/day in China
• 3 certain days * $35/day in Malaysia
• 16 unknown days * $ 25/day

Visa:

• $120 Pakistan single-entry
• $130(?) China single/multi-entry
• $150(?) India 10-year multi-entry, or less for single

Total cost: $2700 +/- 15% ($2300 - $3100)

Sights

• Delhi
• Agra - Taj Majal
• Jaipur
• Amritsar - Golden Temple
• Wagah border crossing w/ Pakistan
• Lahore, Islamabad
• Gilgit and Northern Areas
• Karakoram Highway, old Silk Road, 2nd highest mountain in the world (K2), 8000m+ peaks
• Kashgar, old Sunday Market
• China proper (Beijing)
• Malaysia
• Chennai (Maderas)

Safety concerns

• India: (None)
• Pakistan: Flying to Gilgit to avoid Swat/Dir region of KKH, minimizing time in Punjab province and Gilgit (although these three are pretty safe), avoiding Peshawar (though arguably the coolest part of Pakistan =()
• China: (None)
• Malaysia: (None)

View Planned Silk Road / Asia trip in a larger map

Impressions about Central America: budget

For my trip, I kept a running tally of all of my expenses accrued out of curiosity what the average backpacker's budget would look like. The numbers are below, for a total expenditure of $2458 (including airfare) for travel from Jan 19th to March 3rd. This number is verified within +/- 0.5%, based on comparison to expenditures from my bank account.

• Int'l Airfare: PIT->GUA, PTY->PIT.
• Theft: Money stolen at homestay and through huslers.
  
• Telecommunications: Total costs for cell phone service in Guatemala, and internet.
  
• Transportation: All buses, cars/taxis, boats, etc... within Central America, as well as border duties.
  
• Food: All money spent on foods or drinks, including meals but excluding modest board in Guatemala for 2 1/2 weeks.
• Tours/Entrance: All money spent on entrance fees or activities part of tourism. This includes $220 for scuba diving classes.
• Education: Cost for Spanish lessons for 2 1/2 weeks at $65/20 hour/wk, plus supplies.
• Room: All money spent on living arrangements, including homestays. This figure also includes modest board for 2 1/2 weeks in Guatemala.
• Other: All other categories, including souvenirs.

Impressions about Central America

Nicaragua: For the value, Nicaragua cannot be beat. It has the most off-the-beaten-track feel of all of the Central American countries I visited, yet amenities are comfortable. The costs are the lowest in all of Central America, and the wildlife is relatively well preserved. Between the volcanoes by Granada, the hiking in Isla de Ometepe, the amazing surfing and beach scene around San Juan del Sur, and the Carribean pleasures of Bluefields and the Corn Islands, the attractions are all present (although some of the high-altitude wonders of Guatemala and the Mayan cultural finds are missing). The people are also one of the kindest on the continent. Finally, and most important, Nicaragua is much safer than the countries in the north. If I return, I would spend more time in San Juan del Sur and around Granada. I would also travel to the Little Corn Islands.  I spent around $20-30/day while in Nicaragua. 9/10

Guatemala: Guatemala is endowed with much natural beauty, and deserves its title as the “Nepal of the Americas.” However, Guatemala has a major security problem in its cities. While this should not be a deterrent, having to constantly think about one’s security does detract from the travel experience. With that said, Guatemala definitely has the cultural gems of the region and is a fascinating place to see cultural clash – in this case, between the Mayans and Ladinos. The Western Highlands have a beauty uniquely different from the rest of Central America, and Tikal in El Petén is a must-see. I also liked the food best in Guatemala. If I return, I would spend time in Xela and Coban, and try to hike El Mirador. I spent $37/day, including tuition during my stay; I found the costs to be maybe 5-10% more than Honduras and 15-25% more than Nicaragua. 7/10

Honduras: Honduras I found to have a definite different atmosphere from Guatemala; besides the obvious proliferation of cowboy hats, the people are extremely friendly and helpful and the society as-a-whole seems more unified. For tourist attractions, however, I was largely disappointed in the Bay Islands; they were expensive, but admittedly necessary for scuba certification. Copan was interesting, but lacked the “wow” factor of Tikal; however, the wildlife at Copan was quite stunning. Safety is an issue but I felt safer than while in Guatemala. If I were to return, I would spend time exploring the area around La Ceiba, which is quite beautiful; I would also try to visit the remote jungle area in the eastern half of the country. I spent around $50/day in Honduras, including scuba diving. 5/10

Belize: With limited time in Belize, there is not much to write about; however, the countryside looked extremely well preserved, the melting-pot culture is a must see, and I have only heard good things about the Caribbean Caye Caulker beaches. I would incorporate Belize as a week or week-and-a-half visit from the States, making sure to visit Caye Caulker as well as some of the inland rain forests; longer time would be cost-prohibitive for backpackers. NA/10

Costa Rica: Cannot comment, however I have heard great things about the rain forests and beaches. In my limited travels through the region there was an extremely noticeable price gap (bottle of Coke in Nicaragua: $0.60 USD, in Costa Rica $1.35 USD). It also seemed significantly more touristy than Nicaragua, and the people less friendly or perhaps more accustomed to gringos and the like. I would also visit Nicaragua on a separate week or week-and-a-half vacation, probably going to Montverde and the Nicosia Peninsula. NA/10

Panama: Panama is another destination I wished I had the opportunity to further explore. It is noticeably better developed than the rest of Central America, yet the prices are affordable; food can be found at Guatemalan prices, and rooming is perhaps at a 50% premium but still cheaper than Costa Rica and Belize. It also does not have the touristic feel of Costa Rica, for example. Panama City is a fascinating metropolis to explore (think a southern Miami). Safety is not an issue. With time, I would definitely venture out to explore the pristine rainforests of the Darien, and attempt to get to the Bocas del Toro. I spent $35/day while in Panama. 7/10

South America: Although I did not venture south, I met many people returning from the region or with plans to go. I heard raving reviews about Bolivia, Venezuela, and Argentina. In particular, Argentina was cited as being surprisingly affordable for its metropolitan sights. Colombia, Chile, and Peru were also recommended. 

Panama City, Panama

Panama City is a fascinating city unlike anywhere else in Central America; perhaps the first giveaway is the skyscrapers and visible downtown so unlike the usual capital sprawl. Although there are some odd contrasts, such as the chicken buses going past huge casinos and shopping malls, as a whole Panama City is a metropolis like its North American counterparts, except with Spanish language and 50% discounts on pretty much anything (much more noticeable when prices are published in USD or B./). It is also safe to walk around at night, something that is not taken for granted in Central America.

I found exploring the city by day and exploring the multiple casinos by night to be entertaining. Caseo Viejo was also worthwhile, if not to see the ancient buildings (after visiting San Juan, Puerto Rico this is not impressive) but the Panama City skyline and the Puente de la Americas instead. Finally, the canal is a must (although whether it is worthwhile is another story); visit the Miraflores Locks before 11am or you won’t be able to see the ships go through.

For getting around the city, the buses are pretty straightforward. There are only a few routes that go along the main roads, and all non-metro buses connect through the Albrook Bus Terminal to the north of the city. A ride costs $0.25, which beats a $4 taxi ride. For living, the Bella Vista area I stayed in was wonderful and quaint; the Caseo Viejo area didn’t look too nice, but La Exposition looked pretty good as well. I would recommend avoiding the Voyeur International Hostel due to its slight bait-and-switch tendencies and poor staff.

Panama City from Caseo Viejo

Miraflores Locks, Panama Canal